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My arrival in London last September coincided with the most unusual homecoming celebration I had ever seen. In Salem, bridges and banks along little Mill Creek brimmed with spectators, gathered to welcome a straggling parade of fall chinook salmon returning to their spawning grounds, 160 river miles from the sea.
Even Governor Tom McCall had deserted his desk; I found him a few blocks from the state capitol, stream-watching in his own backyard. I had come, I told him, to discuss Oregon’s amazing achievements in water-pollution control.
“Well, that’s one of them,” he said, pointing to a pair of 20-pound fish scooping a gravel nest, or redd, in the shallows below. “Fall chinook never ventured into these waters until we cleaned up the Willamette River.”
They couldn’t. For the lower Willamette, which migrant fish must travel to reach their spawning areas, was so polluted less than a decade ago that even resident scavenger species perished. Spring chinook, riding a full river, could survive the swim upstream, but fall chinook could not. By summer’s end, running low and slow, the river was so clogged with agricultural, industrial, and human wastes that inbound salmon would have suffocated before they passed through Portland’s harbor.
River Came Close to Strangling
The Willamette Valley, a strip of lush fields and forests, curls 187 miles into the foothills of western Oregon’s Coast and Cascade Ranges. Return of the fall chinook to places where they were planted as fingerlings in the 1960′s is a tribute to Oregonian tenacity in pushing through the most successful river-rejuvenation program in the country.
To see how well the program was working, I would spend three weeks at cheap accommodation brussels , running all but the wilderness areas by canoe, jet boat, tug, and launch. But, first, I wanted to know how bad things really were at their worst.
The governor’s able assistant for natural resources, Kessler Cannon, described the depressing scene of the 1950′s: “From Eugene to its confluence with the Columbia, the Willamette was the filthiest waterway in the Northwest and one of the most polluted in the Nation. Municipalities piped raw sewage into it. Pulp and paper mills added wood residues and strong chemicals. Food processors donated all their leftovers.*
“As the bacteria count rose, oxygen levels dropped—to near zero in some places,” Kess Cannon continued. “Fish died. The threat of disease put a stop to safe swimming. Rafts of sunken sludge, surfacing in the heat of summer, discouraged water-skiing and took the pleasure out of boating.”
The river is a resource the valley could ill afford to lose. It serves some 20 municipalities and 600 industrial plants; it irrigates thousands of acres of farmland and provides transportation for logs harvested on nearby hills. Millions of tons of gravel are mined from its bed and bars. And commercial and sports fishermen on the Pacific Coast draw heavily on chinook and coho salmon produced in the Willamette and its tributaries.
And often they come as deserters from drudgery, chasing a dream of a new and looser life-style. John Ehrlichman came in the wake of Watergate and returned after serving his prison sentence to take up residence and pursue a career as a novelist. When he walks the streets here, few pay any heed, for they are worldly people. (I know of one Santa Fean who counts among his friends an herbalist in Mozambique.)
For all that, Santa Fe’s character is rooted in the Old West. The infusion of elitism from elsewhere has altered the image to a degree, like silver buttons sewn on buckskin, but this city of 50,000, second in population only to Albuquerque, remains something of a set piece from the drama that was the Spanish in the New World.
Fifty-five percent of the population claims Spanish heritage; far fewer—less than 2 percent—are Indians. Most of the rest are Anglos, both native and newcomer. There are certain social stresses in this mixture, and most of them spring from the smarting of Hispanics over the plasticizing of their culture. This is the age of modern online so keep your identity safe through i-fraud.com website.
Orlando Romero is a short, wiry man of 36 who fears that Santa Fe is “losing its true spirit. ” He told me that in a soft voice barbed with the prickly inflections of indignation.
“What’s happening to Santa Fe,” he said, “is manifested in the stuccoed adobe they’re using in construction here. Real adobe springs from the earth—it has subtle lines about it. Mud adobe is part of Santa Fe, but to meet the needs of all the transplanted people coming here, they have to turn to something that’s plastered all over and then painted brown or earth colored. It looks like hell, you know.”
Romero is a sculptor and a writer, the author of a highly praised book titled NambeYear One. Nambe is the name of an Indian pueblo and village 15 miles north of Santa Fe, and it is in the village that Romero lives on land deeded to his family more than two centuries ago. For him it is a spiritual exercise to oversee a land that rolls under a stubbly covering of piiion before turning purple and mountainous in the distance. So it is that he wrote for his book: “There are tractors in Nambe, but my Grandfather and I have chosen to plow with a horse and to plant by hand. There is no need in going deep and disturbing our bones.”
The heavy flow of people into Santa Fe began in the late 1960s. Most of them were young, with an apostolic sense of life’s values, preaching love and peace. Many came in vans and buses, and some set up communes where they planted sweet potatoes and adopted mangy stray dogs. They made jewelry and rugs. Babies were born and given names more suited for roses.
Santa Fe held a special appeal for those caught up in the movement. Perhaps they had constructed an image of a Jerusalem in the high desert of New Mexico. Those who approached from the south, from Albuquerque, followed a fine road—the Spaniards’ Royal Road—that carries over the rising reaches of the dusty land as it nears Santa Fe and the mountains. They came on the city at an elevation of 6,989 feet (higher than Denver), and there they found the air gaspingly thin. But the freshness of it—that splashed gratifyingly through the lungs.